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Portuguese Settlement PORTUGUESE For a taste of Portuguese Malacca id down to the Portuguese Settlement where open-air food stalls by the water sell an assortment of dishes inspired by these former colonial rulers, including many fresh seafood offerings. Saturday nights are best when, at 8pm, there's cultural show with music and dancing.

Jalan d'Albuquerque off Jalan Ujon Pasir. No phone. Dinner from RM15-RM20 (USS3.95-US$5.25) per per,, No credit cards. Open nightly from 6pm onward.



Restoran Bibik Neo PERANAKAN For a taste of the local cuisine, the traditional Nyonya food here is delicious and very reasonably priced. And while the restaurant isn't exactly tops in terms of decor, be assured that the food here is excelent and authentic. Ikan assam with eggplant is a tasty mild fish curry that's n rich and tasty, but I always go for the otak-otak (pounded fish and spices baked in a banana leaf).

No 6, ground floor, Jalan Merdeka, Taman Melaka Raya. 061281-7054. Reservations recommended. Main courses RM5-RM15 (US$1.30-US$3.95). AE, DC, MC, V Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10pm.

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