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CHINESE CUISINE

The large Chinese population in Singapore makes this obviously the most common type of food you'll find, and by right, any good description of Singaporean food should begin with the most prevalent Chinese regional styles. Many Chinese restaurants in the West arc lumped into one category-Chinese-with only mild acknowledgment of Szecbuan and dim sum. But China's a big place, and its size is reflected in its many different tastes, ingredients, arid preparation styles.

A very touchy topic for many Westerners: Chinese cuisine employs many a strange ingredient that sometimes makes the unaccustomed stomach queasy. A saying from way back in my family goes, "The Chinese will eat anything that doesn't eat them first," and it's almost true. Turtle, sea urchin, and sea cucumber are all popular Singaporean dishes, though their meats are unpleasantly mushy to those accustomed to more Western tastes. Many Singaporeans devour these creatures for their taste and some for their health-giving and restorative powers. In fact, some Chinese restaurants are creating dishes using unusual ingredients, which they claim balance the body's energy (its yin and yang) to promote health, beauty, and longevity. Indeed, frog's glands are pretty tasty in scrambled eggs, and the next day your skin will glow like never before!

On the more appealing side are other Chinese-inspired local favorites like carrot cake (white radishes that are steamed and pounded until soft, their fried in egg, garlic, and chile), Hokkiera bak ku teh (boiled pork ribs in a seasoned soup), Teochew kway teow (stir-fried rice noodles with egg, prawns, and fish), and the number one favorite for foreigners, Hainanese chicken rice (boiled sliced chicken breast served over rice cooked in chicken stock).

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