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FOOD STALL DINING

No section on Penang dining would be complete without full coverage of the 'Al food stall scene, which is famous. Penang hawkers can make any dish you've had in Malaysia, Singapore, or even southern Thailand better. 1 had slimy char koay teow in Singapore and swore off the stuff forever. After being forced to try it in Penang (where the fried flat noodles and seafood are a specialty dish), I was completely addicted. Penang may be attractive for many things-history, Culture, nature-but it is loved for its food.

Gurney Drive Foodstalls, toward the water just down from the intersection with Jalan Kelawai, is the biggest and most popular hawker center. It has all kinds of food, including local dishes with every influence: Chinese, Malay, Indian. In addition to the above-mentioned char koay teow, there's char bee hoon (a fried thin rice noodle), laksa (fish soup with noodles), murtabak (a sort of curry mutton burrito), oh chien (oyster omelette with chile dip), and rojak (a spicy fruit and seafood salad). After you've eaten your way through Gurney Drive, you can try the stalls on Jalan Burmah near the Lai Lai Supermarket.

Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion * Cheong Fatt Tze (1840-1917), once dubbed as "China's Rockefeller" by the New York Times built a vast commercial empire in Southeast Asia, first in Indonesia, then in Singapore. He came to Penang in 1890 and continued his success, giving some of his spoils to build schools throughout the region. His mansion, where he lived with his eight wives, was built between 1896 and 1904. Inside are lavish adornments-stained glass, crown moldings, gilded wood-carved doors, ceramic ornaments, and seven staircases. Lebuhraya Leith. 041Z61-0076. Admission RM10 (US82.65) adults and children. Open for guided tours Mon, Wed, Fri-Sat at 11am.
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