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Kota Sri Mutiara, Jalan Sultan Yahya Petra, Kota Bharu 15150, Kelantan, Malaysia. 091746-2233. Fax 91746-1122. 335 units. RM195 (US$50) and up for a double. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants (international, Chinese); lounge; outdoor pool; outdoor, lighted tennis courts; squash courts; fitness center with Jacuzzi and sauna; concierge; limousine service; business center; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming and in-house movie, minibar, coffee/tea-making facilities, hair dryer, iron, safe.

Greens WESTERN/LOCAL Done up in a simple cafe style, Greens has yet to grow into its surroundings in the new Diamond Puteri Hotel. Serving as the coffee shop for the hotel, it is open from early in the morning till late at night and features a wide range of dishes. Choose from familiar western favorites or try their specialty local Kelantanese selections (which are the best dishes), such as ayam perchik (chicken in a coconut and fish stock gravy), a favorite in these parts. Diamond Puteri Hotel, Jalan Post Office Lama. 091743-9988. Reservations not necessary. RM10-RM38 (US$2.65-US$10). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7am-midnight.

Lak Kau Hok Restoran CHINESE/SEAFOOD Kota Bharu isn't all that boring a town at night. Head down to Chinatown's Jalan Kebun Sultan where the streets get lively. Walk past glowing restaurants, hawker stalls, and friends out for a chat and a stroll, and when you reach the little house that is Lak Kau Hok, head inside. The smells of garlic and chiles will seduce you from the moment you enter, and after specialties like steamed garlic prawns and steamed fish Teochew style (with vegetables and mushrooms sauteed in a rich gravy), you'll be very happy you came. Did 1 mention they serve beer?
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