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KOTA KINABALU 4

The Jesselton Hotel ** Listen to me rave about The Jesselton. It's such a nice surprise to find this quaint boutique hotel in the center of Kota Kinabalu, just about the last real reminder in this city of a colonial presence. Even more lovely is the level of personalized service you receive, and the comfort of the rooms, which, though completely modern, retain their charm with lovely Audubon-style inks and attractive wallpapers and fabrics-sort of a cross between a cozy guesthouse and a top-class hotel. Due to lack of space in the building, there's no pool, fitness center, or business center, but the staff at the front desk can help you with tour information and transportation. The coffee house serves local and Western food, which is quite good. The Gardenia Restaurant looks more upmarket than it really is.

69 Jalan Gaya, 88000 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah. 0881223-333. Fax 088/240-401. www.asia-hotels.coml hotel info Jesselton-Hotel-The. 32 units. RM390 (USS103) double; RM910 (US$240) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar & lounge; coffee shop; tour desk; foreign currency exchange; limousine service; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service; complimentary clothes pressing and shoe polishing; nonsmoking rooms. In room: A/C, TV (movies available), minibar, coffee/tea-making facilities, hair dryer, safe.

Shangri-La's Tanjung Aru Resort * * * A short ride southwest of Kota Kinabalu and you're at Tanjung Aru, an amazingly gorgeous beach resort area Sabah's Riviera. The Shangri-La here is located in a most impressive tropical ocean-side setting, it serves the finest local Sabahian cuisine and freshest seafood you can get in the region. Book a room in the Tanjung Wing as the Kinabalu Wing, while newer, is more like a hotel block. Every room has a stunning view of either the sea or Mount Kinabalu, with a balcony for full appreciation. Tropical touches include rattan furnishings in cool colors and local fabrics with wood details. Their tour desk can arrange everything from scuba to trekking and rafting, and their free shuttle gives you convenient access to town.
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