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Pulau Bayu at Shangri-La's Tanjung Aru Resort (088/225-800) serves all varieties of the freshest fish, lobsters, prawns, squid, crabs, scallops, and clams can be ordered in a great many styles, especially prepared from local recipes or barbecue. My mouth waters just thinking about the hinava (raw fish marinated in lime juice, ginger, shallots, herbs, and chile).

If you're in town, you can also get fresh seafood (selected from tanks on the back wall) at Port View Seafood Restaurant, Jalan Haji Saman across from the old Custom's Wharf (088/221-753). Prepared primarily in Chinese and Malay styles, dishes are moderately priced and always succulent.

For a more local experience, food stalls provide the most authentic local cuisine at the best prices. Check out the night stalls on Jalan Sapuloh. Walk through and peek at all the offerings before ordering, and check for the most popular stalls and dishes. (When approaching a new hawker center, I always stroll around checking out what everybody else is eating. Locals always seem to know what's best.)
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