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Xin Cuisine CHINESE CANTONESE/CHINESE HERBAL A recent trend is to bring back the Chinese tradition of preparing foods that have special qualirics for beauty, health, and vitality, balancing the body's yin and yang and restoring energy. Xin (new) cuisine transforms these concepts into light and flavorful creations, listed in a menu that's literally a book. The chef is famous for h:ast-meets-West creations, but be assured, the cuisine is mostly Chinese. The runcentrated seafood soup with chicken and spinach is a light and delicious broth that's neither too thick nor thin and has chunks of meat and shredded spinach. Stewed Mongolian rack of lamb is obviously not Cantonese, but is as render as butter and served in a sweet brown sauce with buns to soak up the -ravy. The steamed eggplant with toasted sesame seed is fantastic, with warm render slices served in soy sauce. For the more adventurous, they serve up a mean hasma scrambled egg whites. Hasma is frog glands, which are believed to improve the complexion. The dish is a little alarming to some, but served with r hint of ginger and scooped onto walnut melba toast, it's actually quite nice. Concorde Hotel, 317 Outram Rd., Level 4. 6516732-3337. Reservations recommended. Small dishes S$10-5$30 (US$5.70-US$17). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon- 2.30pm and 6:30-10:30pm.
Samy's Curry Restaurant * SOUTHERN INDIAN There are many places in Singapore to get good southern Indian banana leaf (see description onder "One Little Island, Lots & hots of Choices," earlier in this singapore & malaysia websection), but none quite so unique as Samy's out at Dempsey Road. Because it's part of the singapore Civil Service Clubhouse, at lunchtime nonmembers must pay 5504 (US30¢) to get in the door. Not that there's much of a door, because Sanity's is lituated in a huge, high-ceilinged, open-air hall, with shutters thrown back and lans whirring above. Wash your hands at the back and have a seat, and soon ,umeone will slap a banana leaf place mat in front of you. A blob of white rice will be placed in the center, and then buckets of vegetables, chicken, mutton, iish, prawn, and you name it will be brought out, swimming in the richest and spiciest curries to ever pass your lips. -fake a peek in each bucket, shake your head yes when you see one you like, and a scoop will be dumped on your banana leaf. Eat with your right hand or with a fork and spoon. When You're done, wipe the sweat from your brow, fold the banana leaf away from you, and place your tableware on top. Samy's serves no alcohol, but the fresh lime juice is nice and cooling.
Block 25 Dempsey Rd. 6516472-2080. Reservations not accepted. Sold by the scoop or piece, S80(-S$3 (US46Q-US$1.70).V. Daily 11 am-3pm, 6-10pm. No alcohol served.
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