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Esmirada * MEDITERRANEAN Ask any expatriate about restaurants and you'll hear about Esmirada. This place revels in the joys of good food and drink, bringing laughter and fun to the traditional act of breaking bread with friends and family. The menu is easy: There's one dish each from Italy, Spain, Greece, France, Portugal, and Morocco, and they never change. Huge portions are served family style, from big bowls of salad to shish kebab skewers hanging from a rack, all placed in the center of the table so everyone can dig in. Don't even bother with paella anywhere else-this is the best. The place is small, so make your reservations early. Stucco walls, wrought-iron details, and terra-cotta floors are mixed with wooden Indonesian tables and chairs with kilim cushions in an East-meets-West style that works very nicely.

Orchard Hotel, 442 Orchard Rd., #01-29. 651735-3476. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses S$24-SS42 (US$14-US$24). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11 am-11 pm.

Gordon Grill ** CONTINENTAL Bringing meat and potatoes to the high life, Gordon Grill wheels out a carving cart full of the most tender prime rib and sirloin you could imagine, cut to your desired thickness. The menu of traditional English and Scottish fare includes house specialties like the pan-fried goose liver with apple and port wine sauce appetizer and the house recipe for (perfect) lobster bisque. Featured entrees are the mixed seafood grill of lobster, garoupa (grouper), scallops, and prawns in a lemon butter sauce and roast duck breast glazed with honey and black pepper. The traditional English sherry trifle is the dessert to order here, but if you want a little taste of everything, the dessert variation lets you have small portions of each dessert, with fresh fruit. The dining room, which is small and warmly set with dark tartan carpeting and portraits of stately Scotsmen, feels more comfortable than claustrophobic, and light piano music drifts in from the lounge next door. Dress formal.

Goodwood Park Hotel, 22 Scotts Rd. 6516730-1744. Reservations recommended. Main courses 5$32-5$50 and up (US$18-US429). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon- 2:30pm, 7-10:30pm.
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