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Ah Hoi’s Kitchen SINGAPOREAN I like Ah Hoi's for its casual charm and its selection of authentic local cuisine. The menu is extensive, specializing in local favorites like fried black pepper kuay teow (noodles), sambal kang kong (vegetable), and fabulous grilled seafood. The alfresco poolside pavilion location gives it a real "vacation in the tropics" sort of relaxed feel-think of a hawker Lenter without the dingy florescent bulbs, greasy tables, and sludgy floor. Also good here is the chile crab-if you can't make it out to the seafood places on the cast coast of the island, it's the best alternative for tasting this local treat. Make sure you order the fresh lime juice. It's very cooling. Traders Hotel, 1A Cuscaden Rd., 4th level. 6516831-4373. Reservations recommended. Main courses S$8-S$27 (US$4.55-US$15). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.

Crystal Jade Palace * CHINESE CANTONESE Although Crystal Jade falace is an upmarket choice, its a fantastic way to try Chinese food as it was intended. From the aquariums of soon-to-be-seafood-delights at the entrance vou can survey the rows of big round tables (and some small ones, too) packed with happy diners feasting away. The food here is authentic Cantonese, prepared by Hong Kong master chefs. Dim sum, fresh seafood, and barbecue dishes accompany exotic shark's fin and baby abalone. Scallop dishes are very popular and can be prepared either sauteed with cashews, chile, and soy; pan-fried with chiles, white pepper, and salt; or sauteed with green vegetables. The tender panfried cod in light honey sauce proves worthy of its reputation as a time-honored favorite. For a unique soup, try the double-boiled winter melon with mixed meats, mushrooms, crab, and dried scallops served in the halved melon shell. You can order Chinese or French wines to accompany your meal.

391 Orchard Rd., #04-19 Ngee Ann City. 651735-2388. Reservations required. Small dishes S$12-5$38 (US$6.85-US$22); set lunch for 2 from 5$50 (USS29). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm.
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