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SINGAPORE MODERATE 2

Patara Fine Thai THAI Patara may say fine dining in its name, but the food here is home cooking: not too haute, not too traditional. Seafood and vegetables are big here. Deep-fried garoupa (grouper) is served in a sweet sauce with chile that can be added sparingly upon request. Curries are popular, too. The roast duck curry in red curry paste with tomatoes, rambutans, and pineapple is juicy and hot. For something really different, Patara's own invention, the Thai taco isn't exactly traditional, but is good, filled with chicken, shrimp, and sprouts. Their green curry, one of my favorites, is perhaps the best in town. Their Thaistyle iced tea (which isn't on the menu, so you'll have to ask for it) is fragrant and flowery. A small selection of wines is also available. Patara has another outlet at Swissotel Stamford Level 3. Stamford Road ( 65/6339-1488).

#03-14 Tanglin Mall, 163 Tanglin Rd. , 6516737-0818. Reservations recommended for lunch, required for dinner. Main courses S$17-5$30 (US$9.70-US$17). AE, DC, MC, V Daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm.

Pine Court * CHINESE MIXED The decor at Pine Court is stunning. Designed to emulate an elegant courtyard, the carved rosewood screens on the walls are like geometric lace, and little clusters of delicate wood and white paper lanterns cast a warm glow from the high ceilings. During dinner, and while music plays, the giant silk-screen landscape painting against the far wall is transformed through visual effects to represent each season. Pine Court was once a Beijing-style restaurant, and even though they now serve many different kinds of Chinese cuisine, the Beijing duck remains a favorite and will never leave the menu. The sauteed mixed seafood served in a yam basket is comprised of stirfried scallops, prawns, and garoupa (grouper) with vegetables in a lightly fried basket that's very tasty-it's a great presentation. Another great dish is the specialty crispy roast chicken (whole or half), with the skin left on and seasoned with soy sauce.

Mandarin Singapore, 333 Orchard Rd. (take the express elevator to the 35th floor). 651831-6262. Reservations recommended. Small dishes S$16-5$46 (USS9.15-US$26). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon-3pm, 6:30-11 pm.
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