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THE EAST COAST 5


Unless you stay at the Best Western Berjaya Tioman Beach Resort, expect to be roughing it. For some travelers, the Berjaya Tioman, with its wonderful modern conveniences, is what it takes to make a tropical island experience relaxing. Your shower is always warm, you can order food to your room, and you can arrange any activity through the concierge in the lobby. For others, though, real relaxation comes from an escape from modern distractions. The small chalets in the kampungs have very minimal facilities and few or no conveniences such as hot showers and telephones. Why would you want to stay in them? Because they're simple, quiet, close to the beach, and less touristy than the resort. Be warned, however, that touts at the jetty in Mersing will offer you all sorts of really, really cheap accommodations, many of which are so rustic they're beyond Robinson Crusoe. Those I've listed under "The Kampungs," below, are all on the habitable side of rustic.

Berjaya Tioman Beach Resort * This is the only true Western-style resort on the island, and provides all the conveniences you'd expect from a chain hotel. Accommodations are provided in small blocks and private chalets, some with sea views, but most facing gardens. Inside, wood floors, flowery drapes, upholstery, and bedspreads brighten simple rattan furnishings. Each room has a small balcony, but guests are advised against hanging clothes and towels to dry. Attached bathrooms are small, tiled affairs, with combination bathtub and showers. The beach here is fine, however don't expect much surf since the resort if located on the west coast of the island, protected form the open sea. One benefit, an onsite PADI center, but don't come all this way for Berjaya's ho-hum golf course. Tioman Island, Pahang Darul Makmur 091419-1000. Fax 09/419-1718. Mar-Oct RM550-700 (US$145-US$184) chalet; RM800 (US$211) suite. Nov-Feb rates discounted 50%. AE, DC, MC, V Amenities: 4 restaurants (international, local, Chinese, steamboat); beach bar and karaoke lounge; 2 outdoor pools; 18-hole golf course; outdoor, lighted tennis courts; tiny fitness center; sauna; game room; activities desk; watersports equipment rentals; PADI scuba center; shuttle service; limited room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite programming, minibar, coffee/tea-making facilities, hair dryer.
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